Easter in the Great Smoky Mountains/April 3rd and 4th

Day #1: Hiking Ace Gap Trail off of Rich Mtn. west of the better portion of GSMNP, the trail begins with a slight incline as we amble 5.8 miles mid/late afternoon, passing mountain homes scattered along the park boundary, deciduous trees yet to bud. I am incredibly psyched to be hefting at least 20 light lbs. of overnight gear. Cloud cover shifts and shades the trail, strong winds blow through the bare treetops. Will it rain? No hats, no coats, wearing shorts…the temperature is better-suited for late May, but raingear is packed (always!). Once reaching intersection of Ace Gap and Beard Cane Trail, we descend between high soft ridges, fallen leaves gold on the ground as the sun breaks through. This long hollow becomes a creek bed, remains so with mysterious forks of water forming and combining, currents changing direction out of sight. Rhododendron and white pine provide green color along the walk. Not much later, trillium buds rise from the ground but stand tight and unbloomed. Described as “marshy” by a friend, I can imagine in a rainy season, when foliage is full, this walk would probably be a lot wetter and muddier, perhaps cooler. Pit-stop at #3 for afternoon coffee and gathering water is delightful. Nice and clean with lots of flat space. I put on waterproof socks AFTER a major spill prior to arriving at campsite, not a bad tactic, but almost forget my Smartwool and liner socks drying on a tree branch. The abundance of small stream crossings, as well as blowdowns, make the 2.0 (approx) to #11 tricky, nonetheless a peaceful early evening. Shared #11 with a young couple from Louisiana who are out on a multiple-night excursion; they’d been fishing near Abrams Creek earlier, good company. Fatigue and hunger after 8.8 miles make setting up camp a slightly woozy experience, but once the fire is set and food cooked, I find a perfect lounging spot against a tree, quite snug on a fat root. Stars shine all night, moon settles on the tent not much before dawn.




Day #2: Easter Sunday in the Smokies, what a treat! Slow moving out of camp, the sun filters down, temperatures still agreeable. Much more uphill hiking today (“real hiking”--ha!) climbing up and over gaps, around shady brooks and bends, to Hatcher Mtn. Trail which is fairly strenuous but glorious, high views transmuting into a smooth riverbed walk, meeting Little Bottoms Trail. Wildflowers are clearly opening here, different varieties from yesterday, some seemingly shocked by the heat. At #17, a father and two small children are playing on a grassy spot beneath large trees. I say, “Looking for the Easter Bunny?” and Dad remarks they’d rather be here instead of church. No kidding! Upon reaching Abrams Creek Campground, activities are calm for a holiday weekend in GSMNP. I nap on a sunny picnic bench while partner goes another 0.5 to find our ride, generously offered. The wonderful variety of trail and landscape changes, my first overnight hike of the season (2010) has me feeling enthusiastic and seriously considering round-trip from Cades Cove to Hannah Mtn. Trail, back around to Gregory Bald for return, sometime soon.