Great Smokey Mountains National Park and Alternative Fuels

Wednesday, September 30, Alternative Fuels Celebration

Join Superintendent Cash at Oconaluftee at 9:30 a.m. or Sugarlands at 1:30 p.m. for two ribbon-cutting ceremonies to unveil new pieces of alternative fuel equipment.  Propane mowers, neighborhood electric vehicles, and new charging stations will be available for viewing along with a fast-charge demonstration with a Nissan Leaf vehicle and a Tesla Model S vehicle. The Smokies are the first unit in the National Park Service to install and operate public DC fast-charging stations.

The AT July 17, 2015, day 4

This section of the AT was fairly moderate as far as difficulty is concerned for the healthy experienced hiker.  Water was available throughout the 4 days of hiking this section of the AT, and I was reminded of my lack of water by my inaction on previous occasions to top-off those containers when I have any questions about my needs. 
The sign below was just after the handicap accessible part of the trial on TN 91, as we entered a big open field and our final 6.5mls to our vehicle.

 The trail was moderate in most respects for the prepared hiker, with enough incline to keep you focused on the moment and blessed with some great scenery.

Wow, another awesomely rewarding excursion on the AT!

Third Day on the AT 2015

The small fire we had built burnt itself out as we relaxed in the tent and got some restful sleep. Upon awakening we had some coffee, and breakfast foods. I hung the tent, rain-fly and ground-cloth as soon as we had our stuff out of it so while we were eating and packing other things it would dry further. Thus losing some weight and preventing mildew and odors from the tent being stuffed in a pack damp from the nights dew and the previous rains.
Our hike began with the climb from the camping site up to the AT, and then continued north. All the other hikers were gone from the shelter and overflow area.
Eight miles into this days walk we got to see this monument at the gravesite for Mr. Nick Grindstaff (1851-1923). Described as a hermit, Nick lived on Iron Mtn. with his dog named "Panter", his cow, and a "pet" rattlesnake in a small cabin near where this monument is built. It's said that when his friend Baxter McEwen, stopped by his shack to check in on him and found him dead that old Nick's dog had to be restrained before they could remove his body.  From what I can determine from what I have read this monument is atop his gravesite.

Seems that was a loyal old dog which was later buried  beside Mr. Grindstaff, when it died.
His epitaph read, "He lived alone, suffered alone, and died alone", and it should be added that he was well liked by those who new him.  

Watauga Lake and the Iron Mountain Ridge. The 2nd Day on the AT 2015

The second day began with clouds and fog and lots of moisture in the air. Our gear stayed dry for the most part by covering it before sleeping with the potential of rain. Most anytime I go hiking for more than about 4 mls in the Southern Appalachian mountains I bring some raingear. We also hung some stuff out to dry before we started this days walk.

Had we been farther into the day or had we been out for a few days at this point we would likely have stopped just a few miles into this days hike at the Shook Branch Recreation Area; located on Watauga Lake, with bathrooms, picnic tables and a swimming area, it would make a great stop for a bath/swim and to clean your pack etc... Even early into this days hike it looked quite inviting.

Just past this area we crossed over the dam entered into a beautiful forest with the lake to our right and a steady climb up along the side of Iron Mountain.

This section of the AT, from US 321 to Wilbur Dam Rd. (approx. 4 miles), which includes the Watauga Lake Shelter, is to be used for hiking only until December of 2015, due to bear activity. Follow this link to our friends at the ATC for more details: There was plenty of water along the way and any time I was running low it was because I was trying to keep up with The Mysterious One, or was to lazy to take off my pack and refill my nalgenes. Our intentions were to utilize the shelters as we could but there was a "church affiliated backpacking event" of some sort happening on this section of the AT, and the second and third nights out the shelters were full and overflowing so we utilized the tent all three nights out. This was fine as we had time to hang dry the tent to rid it of any moisture it collected and after that first nights downpours there was no precipitation of any consequence. This section of trail was dotted with; as was much of the four days, rhododendron in bloom as well as other native flowering plants.

When I arrived near the Vandeventer Shelter and found it full, The Mysterious One had already located the water source and a campsite off the trail and down a steep spur towards the water, which was down even farther from this campsite on a steep spur. I'd say from the shelter to the water was like a quarter mile+-. Getting to it is easy with gravity pulling you down the steep, sometimes tricky stepping trail. However the return trip up the steep mountainside could be unpleasant after a long days hike so I'd suggest you bring all your water containers with you as this is not a chore you'll want to do frequently while camping at the Vandeventer Shelter. We set up camp, got a small fire going and enjoyed the moments. This day on the AT was moderate to difficult, depending on your condition and preparation, with a over 12 mls hiked and an elevation gain of more than 2000'.

A few days on The Appalachain Trail for 2015

Dudes and dudettes! What a pleasant surprise this 4 day section; July 14-17th, of the AT proved to be! And I should not be surprised as any part of middle and southern Appalachia that I have visited in it's natural state has been beautiful. The next several entries will cover the duration of the excursion.

The Mysterious One and I began this northbound walk from Brown's Grocery in Hampton TN, where we were able to park the car and hike the 1/4 mile or so up the paved road (left out of the parking lot), to the Laurel Falls Trailhead (on the right), which takes you into the forest and provides access to the AT in about a mile.

Having reached the AT late in the afternoon we hiked in 4+mls and set up our tent in the Pond Flats Vicinity. Shortly after darkness fell we were greeted with some tremendous rains which continued for what seemed like several hours, stopped and began again just before daylight. The rain stopped again as we were waking which was a blessing. The tent held up fairly well with only minor seepage in the door/zipper seams and some condensation dripping from the rain-fly, yet with all the moisture it was keeping out I was pleased. The next day was warm and muggy.

New Bear Closures and updates in the Smokies

The Cosby Knob Shelter is closed due to bear activity, as well as campsites 36, 37, and 38. The following areas have had recent bear activity and caution and awareness should be used when utilizing these trails, campsites, and shelters. Shelters: Le Conte Lodge, Le Conte Shelter, Davenport, Derrick Knob and Russell Field Campsites: 13, 24, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, and 88 Trails: Baskins Creek and Laurel Falls.

Women of Southern Appalachia

Great Smoky Mountains National Park will host the annual Women’s Work Festival at the Mountain Farm Museum on Saturday, June 20. This festival honors the vast contributions made by the women of Southern Appalachian and showcases lifeways that women used to keep their families going in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. The event is from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. and all activities are free.
As part of the celebration, demonstrations among the historic buildings will include hearth cooking, soap making, cornshuck crafts, and sewing. Exhibits of artifacts and historic photographs will also provide a glimpse into the many and varied roles of rural women. The Davis-Queen house will be open for visitors to walk through with an audio exhibit featuring the last child born in the house. This event provides families with a chance not only to see into the past, but also participate, through hands-on activities of traditional southern Appalachia.
In addition to the Women's Work Festival activities, visitors will also be treated to a music jam session on the porch of the Oconaluftee Visitor Center. Music jam sessions are held every first and third Saturday of the month on the porch from 1:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m.
All activities are free to the public. The Mountain Farm Museum is located on Newfound Gap Road adjacent to the Oconaluftee Visitor Center, 2 miles north of Cherokee, North Carolina. For additional information call the visitor center at 828-497-1904.

Flowers in the Smokies

The flowers in the Smokies have been fabulous so far this year with the Mountain Laurel on the backside of its bloom but many still very pretty! This immediate area is, for the most part, like 4 inches+ short of the rain we usually get this month. Some spots have received relief with pop-up thunderstorms and brief, heavy rain.

Over the last three weeks the hikes I have taken have offered the annual display of natural and native colors. I have walked several trails including some otg, however the majority of these blooms were occurring on marked trails no more than a mile from parking areas.

Abrams Creek and Crossing Water

This awesome day-hike began on the Rabbit Creek trail, departing from the Abram's Creek Ranger Station. The Mysterious One, and I took this walk on easter Sunday which covered sections of trails we had never hiked. The first 2.7 mls is relatively moderate for the experienced hiker.

At the 2.7ml mark, there is an intersection of trails and where one will find campsite #16. We went left onto the Hannah Mtn Trail and a pleasant hike on a route which does not apparently get used as much as others. This lack of traffic could be for a couple of reasons, one being it's location in an area of the park not accessed by the "multitudes" whom visit the GSMNP each year, and another being that if one plans to complete this portion of trail then they must cross Abrams Creek on their own without a bridge. This water crossing is described by some of the guide books for the Smokies as the most difficult in the park with that level of difficulty dependent on several factors such as snow melt and/or recent rains which of course raise the flow of the stream. As I noted earlier we completed this route on Sunday April 5th, a day after some significant rain, during a rainy spring season, and the snow melt was still being felt in the streams. Caution and preparedness must be utilized anytime one makes a significant water crossing. Once we arrived at this crossing we packed our day-packs for the water, reviewed the strength and depth of the water in a few places, and chose one to began our crossing. I tried to slow walk facing up stream but lost my footing after a few feet and was quickly swept into the current so I assumed the position and guided myself across the strong currents using my feet by pushing off the bottom and large rocks. This picture is just a few feet downstream from where we crossed and you can see Hannah Mountain Trail coming down to the water through the trees.

The Mysterious One, who was on a boulder waiting for me to try first, asked how deep it was as I was pushing and paddling my way across and I said "hold on", and went completely under trying to touch the bottom. This depth was in the deeper channels which we had noticed before we started by the darker color reflected by these deeper waters. So I make it across relatively safely and after that the mysterious one makes shallow dive into one of the deeper spots and is quickly across. Having done so we noticed that we were in a secluded spot because we had crossed upstream from the main path and so we lost the wet clothes, hung them in nearby bushes and had lunch. After eating and partially drying our clothes we packed up and finished the mile plus to the crowded Abrams Falls, where we sat for a few minutes and then returned via the Little Bottoms Trail. This trail is a moderate route for the most part with some more challenging sections depending on your health and the miles you may have already accumulated that day.

This was a really fulfilling hike and one I'll do again in another season when the water level is likely to be lower.

As a man once said...."And now, for the rest of the story"

 This is a continuation of the previous entry. 
This particular area of southwest Virginia/southeast Kentucky is somewhat remote in that given it's rugged terrain and thankfully, the absence of any major interstates close by, masses of people do not travel here.  Thus some of the history remains, some of the native culture(s) remains, some of the local communities remain and even some clean mountain water still remains.
These things however are threatened with each days continuous destruction of the mountains of middle-Appalachia, to an unnecessary, and most destructive form of mining known as mountaintop removal, (mtr).
I took this photo from the side of the road going up Black Mountain, from Big Stone Gap VA, shortly after leaving Lake KeoKee and the Jefferson NF. This mtr site is massive, though far from the biggest, and sits on the KY-VA border.

As the highway crossed the state-line at the top of Black Mountain, (4700ft+) and I began my decent into Kentucky along the narrow winding road I realize how close this hike was to poisoned water sources.
My travels took me into Benham KY, about 30+ minutes from the state-line atop  Black Mountain, and to the small community which has embraced it's history as, among other things, a coal mining town.
Two things I'd suggest to visit while in this community is a stay at the School House Inn, and the coal mining museum across the street. Both of which are very easy to find in this small town. 
I wish I did not have to so obviously enter into this topic.  However it is very important that folks from outside the areas affected directly become more aware of the true cost of coal and the roles we do play, and can play in stopping this crime against humanity. (See  ilovemountains.org for further information.) 

Lake KeoKee, in Southwest Virginia.

Wow! what a beautiful visual this lake and area provided within this portion of the Jefferson National Forest, in SW VA.














I was making my way from the Appalachian Studies Conference in Johnson City, TN which had wrapped up on Sunday and with a day to myself before the next commitment in Benham KY, on Tuesday I thought I'd hike some new areas for myself.  A search of the internet and google maps led me to this fairly easy to access part of the Jefferson NF.

I came from Big Stone Gap and 23w and my Garmin (GPS thing), kept a signal the whole way; I had written them down before leaving my hotel just in case, and though only about 15 mls from the exit off of 23w, it takes like 25 minutes do to the nature of the roads (i.e. curvy).
Facing the lake from the parking lot, where you'll find some enclosed composting toilets, I started on the trail to the left sideof the lake.
This route was fairly modest in difficulty and is a 3.7 ml. loop  around the lake. 

Clingmans Dome Road

Great Smoky Mountains National Park officials announced plans to open Clingmans Dome Road this weekend beginning Friday, March 27 as weather permits. Due to mild temperatures this week, park crews have been able to prepare the road and facilities for the seasonal spring opening ahead of schedule allowing additional opportunities for visitors to reach the popular destination. Accessible by vehicle, the 7-mile road leading to Clingmans Dome is typically closed December 1 through March 31 of each year due to winter weather. At 6,643 feet, Clingmans Dome is the highest point in the park and the third highest mountain east of the Mississippi. Park visitors can enjoy views from the parking area or climb the steep, half-mile walk to the observation tower to the summit of Clingmans Dome which offers spectacular 360° views of the Smokies. Visitors may receive information and trip planning advice at the Clingmans Dome Information Center which includes a bookstore managed by Great Smoky Mountains Association. The road will continue to be monitored for hazardous conditions and could be closed due to inclement weather. For the most current road closure information, please call 865-436-1200 x 631 or follow SmokiesRoadsNPS on Twitter.

Hiking in the Snow

Wow! Dudes and Dudettes, we finally got some "substantial" snow, haha, here in the valley, which is where this picture is from, with reports of over a foot accumulated on the highest elevations throughout the last week. Many of the side roads around the park are covered from the snowfall we had overnight and early this morning so "use your head out there." The roads in the GSMNP are primarily closed at this point (3:50 est, Feb. 24th). You can check the Smokies twitter acct. at twitter.com/smokiesroadsnps , for updated information.

Some from the trails

As I have hiked through the forest of East Tennessee, the rugged terrain of West Virginia, the Cumberland Plateau's concealed beauty, or the Spanish Peaks and Bridger's in Montana, I have been provided at times, the gift of awareness. Awareness in the sense of the need to accept differing weather and trail conditions and adapt to those particular elements of the moment.

Becoming aware of these needs to adapt are also parts of everyday living. Hiking, as many of you I am sure have experienced, provides the opportunity to see and experience things most of the people in developed countries will never see. The moments are only for you for that moment. Be it some funky bug crawling across a leaf beside you; a bee frozen in the petals of a flower after a late freeze (picture), the sun light colored as it filters through the trees and moist air, or a some funky plant you've never seen, that moment will never be experienced again.

However the nature of the experience will happen the next time a hiker notices the mushrooms which popped up along a trail that were not there yesterday or the next time a hiker is able to only see the next few feet in front of them because of fog, clouds, rain, and/or snow and knows that his or her 3 day trip has just started, or you see a new bloom. The next time any of those unique moments in time occur and I hope I remember to say, "yes,that's why I love doing this!"

The Smoky Mountains

....and that's what I saw while hiking up a closed Rich Mtn rd. I chose this route because after checking the GSMNP website and twitter account where they post road conditions I had seen where the road into Cades Cove was closed at the turn for Tremont due to a rock slide on Thursday. So I thought I'd go up to the Rich Mtn trail form outside the park and as I was pulling in to park I thought, "hmm?", maybe I'll just hike back towards Cades Cove on Rich Mtn rd since it's closed.

And so I did. Must have hiked 3 or 4 miles "in through the out door",and turned around just as Cades Cove came into view. I was pretty close to where the Indian Grave Gap trial comes off of the mountain onto Rich Mtn. rd. and enjoyed the views.

Road to Cades Cove has reopened

Laurel Creek Rd is now open with no restrictions.

Laurel Creek Rd from Tremont Rd to Cades Cove is temporarily closed due to a rock slide

Laurel Creek Rd from Tremont Rd to Cades Cove is temporarily closed due to a rock slide.  This apparently occurred last night.
You can see the park's information here:https://twitter.com/SmokiesRoadsNPS

Great Smoky Mountains National Park Changes Firewood Regulations to Protect Forests

The folks at the Great Smoky Mountains National Park a change to regulations that will help protect park forests by limiting the type of firewood brought into the park. These are the details...

 

Beginning in March 2015, only heat-treated firewood that is bundled and displays a certification stamp by the USDA or a state department of agriculture will be allowed for use in park campgrounds. 

Heat-treated firewood will be available to purchase from concessioners in many of the campgrounds as well as from private businesses in the communities around the park. Certified heat-treated firewood is packaged in 0.75 cu-ft. bundles clearly displaying a certification stamp. The wood is a high-quality hardwood product that has been heated for 60 minutes at 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The wood lights easily, burns well for campfires, is safe to cook over, and is already available at over 85 locations near the park that can be viewed on an interactive map by visiting www.nature.org/firewoodmap. In addition, visitors may still collect dead and down wood in the park for campfires.

“The threat of these new pests coming into our forests, both in the park and regionally, compels us to do all we can to reduce the risk to our forests,” said Acting Superintendent Clayton Jordan. “While a ban on the importation of non-treated firewood will not entirely halt the spread of destructive forest pests and diseases, it will greatly slow it down. This allows time to develop and implement new treatment strategies to help control the impacts from these non-native pests and diseases.” 

Non-native, tree-killing insects and diseases can unknowingly be introduced through firewood transported from infested areas. A variety of destructive pests lay eggs or stowaway in firewood. These insects from Asia and Europe have the potential to devastate over 30 species of hardwood trees native to the park. New infestations threaten our forests with widespread tree mortality that could devastate wildlife habitat, biodiversity, and scenic views. The use of firewood that has been heat treated eliminates the threat posed by these pests through the movement and use of wood in campfires. 

National parks throughout the Appalachian region have taken action to limit the spread of insect pests in firewood including, in many cases, the banning of imported firewood. For the past three years, the Smokies has prohibited the importation of firewood from areas quarantined by the USDA Animal Plant Health Inspection Service. Park rangers have been working over the past year with numerous partners representing federal and state agencies, conservation organizations, and universities to mitigate the risks associated with movement of firewood including a public education campaign with campground programs and regionally placed billboards.

For more information about firewood and forest and insect pests in the park, please visit the park website athttp://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/firewood-alert.htm.