Another Year Begins on The Trail

This excursion took place on Saturday August 30th, w/ the beginning of "new years", of different sorts, amongst friends and new friends, along the trail today. A hot humid day to share gratitude for the things in the wild life, and also a time to share plans and ideas for our part in conserving it.
Our walk began out of the Cades Cove picnic area which was busy w/ folks enjoying their version of the outdoors and it was great to see this. Hopefully they'll educate themselves on the republican candidates environmental past, and his vp nominee, and her affiliation w/ big oil and her Dismal environmental record. If they enjoy these places.
After we passed the horse camp at the beginning of the Anthony Creek trail we followed it the 3.5 miles up to Bote Mtn. trail. An important new friend was made along the way about a mile and half into the walk when we met Beth who was coming down from the AT after meeting her friends at Spence Field the day before. She spoke of all the bear sightings she had heard of that morning and the one she'd seen as well (Our group had reached the trailhead around 11:30am). She also shared w/ us some information of a website posted by a group she's a part of, I've since reviewed, and we'll post a link to after we clear it w/ them.
After speaking for a while and exchanging some information we parted and began the ascent of the current trail up to Bote Mtn. We made exceptional time in the first part of this excursion, which eventually totaled approx. 14 mls., as "the mysterious one" lead w/ a strong and consistent pace. Once we reached the AT via the Bote Mtn. trail we went over to the Spence Field shelter and ate some lunch; delicious wraps purchased from Jamie at 'Thunderhead Perk' in Townsend (see the links on this page). While here we spoke w/ several folks who were sectional hikers, another two who were out for the weekend, one of which had hiked a large portion of the AT, and several others scattered around the vicinity of the shelter. There was a small flow of water from the source here.
Well, as we finished our lunch and the "overnighters" began to disperse for their next stop we picked up a our garbage and gear and continued. This relatively easy 2.9 ml., section of the AT was pretty awesome w/ balds, trees, birds, flowers, and a readiness for bears. This readiness was on account of the fact that the recent bear activity in this region of the park has been noted and the Russel Field shelter; our next destination, was closed because of "aggressive activity". As was campsite #10, which we would be passing through along our descent from the AT after turning off at Russel Field. We heard on two occasions, what appeared to be large animals close by, in thick cover. The first as we approached Russel Field and then along the descent from the AT on Russel Field trail. Along this trail, probably 200 yards down on the left (just past the formal source) from the shelter we found a big puddle of water flowing, slowly, which I got water from.
This area was open under the canopy in most places as we walked this trail and were both delighted and saddened as we noticed the Huge Hemlocks destroyed by the woolly algid. Some great trees fallen while others still stand in skeleton form building mounds of mulch around the trunks as the bark peels from them. Mixed within this forest were some huge oaks as well. Portions of forest along this trail are considered part an "old- growth forest". Note that does not mean virgin forest. This trail intersects back w/ the Anthony Creek Trail, after a 3.5 mile fairly easy walk from where it began. A person on these trails will want to wear some hiking boots w/ good soles because of the rough nature of these trails due to horses and to a much lessor extent, hiker volume. Lots of rocks. Hey, we also picked up various pieces of plastic waste including empty retail water bottles. A great day w/ friends. Peace

The Mysterious One Off The Grid

Cool Beans! The "Mysterious Hiker" was spotted off the grid today in this picture....I think, and rumor has it she may be around w/ friends tomorrow.
Today was a warm moist day along one of them streams I followed OTG. The boar traps remain unused along the trail as they were last time I walked this route and there was sign of what appears, to this novice, to be recent scraping/digging made by boar. The streams I crossed and followed were all strong w/ the recent rain. Cardinal flowers and other assorted small wildflower were frequent along the walk w/ purple and white blooms among the colors.

And Then It Rained...some more

Hello, Yea! It's raining some more again today!! It started around noon and has varied in intensity but is falling steady. Rock On! We've had about 2" of rain over the last 2 days. And it was a soaking rain which helps some w/ this years below average rainfall.
I went for a walk this morning for several miles (4+) before the rain. From West Prong Trailhead at Tremont up, around, and down to #18. The creek at #18 was running a bit stronger w/ the recent rains and the spring which crosses the trail just before you reach this site, coming from Tremont was strong as well. On the return I took the unmarked trail which is just about halfway, and at the approximate high point of this walk (approx. 2000'). It's a really cool change and makes the walk a "spoon" shaped route instead of a RT on all the same trail.

Campsite #18, via Bote Mtn. Trail

Today,(8/23/08), we have a VP on the Democratic ticket and I hiked for about 4.5 miles in the GSMNP. I started the morning w/ big plans and found I was unintentionally delaying my start through repeated evaluations and second guessing. So finally I got my stuff and went to the Post Office to mail a letter to the editor. W/ this done I was on my way to the park entrance and went right at the Townsend 'Y', to "force" the issue for myself and decide the route for the day. I chose the the Bote Mtn. trailhead which begins approx. 3.5 miles in from the 'Y', w/ a parking area at the Schoolhouse Gap trailhead on the right. The Bote Mtn. trail is about 250 yards back and across the street. This trail was described on another day in an entry from 7/7/08, of a walk on June 25th. I found the route similar to that day minus the "creature sighting", and add dust from the lack of rain. After the 1.2 mile climb and intersection w/ the end of the West Prong trail I went left on that trail and to campsite #18, which was like only a half a mile or so. I've walked through this site a few times but this time having no agenda, I stopped and looked around. What a great campsite! The water was still running well in the West Prong, which separates the tent sites at this campsite and the folks who have "adopted" this site for upkeep had apparently been here recently w/ signs of cleaned fire pits and grounds. Thank you for your help. The sites are spread apart giving lots of privacy w/ each having a fire ring, easy water if the West Prong is running, and pulleys for the packs etc... . This site, #18, is easily accessible from the West Prong trailhead parking at Tremont as well and both routes appear to be about the same distance, approx. 2mls.
While I was at #18, I walked to each camping area and really liked 'A', and 'C', for the distance from the main trail, and other reasons like this "large puddle" of moving water, one of several at #18, which flowed just beyond 'A'. Come walk w/ us and you can decide for yourself.
I followed a trail up the creek from site 'C', which appeared to be along an old road; or railway from the logging years, and also an area which looked like it once had a building(s) of some sort on it. Actually I noted a couple of spots where this looked to be the case so I'll ask about it when I'm volunteering next week at the visitor center. Really a nice hike complete w/ Cardinal Flowers, and big trees. Peace

Middle Prong

This day hike began around 9:30am at the Middle Prong Trailhead up the gravel road from The Institute at Tremont. The trail is an easy to moderate incline for the length I took it, 4 miles one way up to the falls, just before the Lynn Camp Prong Trail, and an easy 4 mile return. I say easy though good footwear should be worn on this trail because it is rough on the surface w/ rocks and gravel from the heavy travel and horses. This trail follows the old railroad route used for hauling supplies in and cut trees out during the time of the Little River Lumber Company. The last timber cut after the Park was established came out along the rails that once snaked through here.
I saw the old Cadillac parked here for the last time about 2 miles in (see the "lil' brown book" for more details). Mr. Ralph Hayes, whom I'd met while walking this trail soon after I moved here had first told me of this car and we looked for it some that day but didn't go far enough. Well Ralph, I found it.
Among other things to note along this moderate hike were the spots where houses and other structures once stood and where bridges crossed the prong. Theses bridges left evidence w/ steel cables and rock foundations. Along the way you'll see large rocks, small waterfalls, flowers, and assorted trees to enjoy as you walk. I saw deer, fish, bugs and birds. Lynn Camp Falls can be found at approx. 4 miles. These are really pretty and not traveled nearly as much as others do to the distance and they are not on the park issue trail map. They are found down a narrow spur to the right. I use the word "falls" in the plural because it is a cascading fall w/ at least three levels. This is a nice route to access the AT or just a RT dayhike. In the approach before the falls the trail begins to get steeper, and from past experience on this trail that grade increase continues pretty much until the AT. Peace

Out on The Farm, August 16-19th

'Hidden Springs', is the farm I was on and again I met more really interesting people. Portions of Hector and Susie's family, large parts of it, were in town visiting so the dinners were large events w/ folks from at least two Provinces of Canada, and several states. On one evening there were around 30 people eating w/ the fresh foods being prepared by family members throughout the day. The number of folks participating was not always that big but the foods were fixed w/ combined efforts and love. I returned to Townsend on Tuesday afternoon but had the opportunity to sample; several times, an awesome homemade desert. A "brownie" of some sort I'll call it, yet this thing rivaled the best energy bar I've ever read the nutrition content on and that has been a "few". Dude, they had chocolate, nuts of assorted types and fruits and berry's from the garden of various flavors. I think it had oats or some cereal in it as well. I do not have a complete list of the ingredients so maybe if Eric; a current "migrant worker", (ha,ha,humour), reads this he could clarify the ingredients for us in the comment section. If not I'll ask next week when I go back up for a few days.

Several of us including Alexis and Eric got out for a slow walk into the falls, up, over, and around, then back down. While on top of the falls we followed the stream, which feeds the cascade in this picture, about a quarter mile up stream and it was strong despite the lack of rain over the last few weeks. Further action was taken in discussion w/ Hector towards protecting the falls area. It is early in the process and as Hector so calmly states, "so much work to be done yet". This, I believe, was referring to the berry's on the bush and the work remaining to complete the harvest. Peace

The Plateau

Wow, what a wonderful description Meg the Hiker gave of our first experience w/ Hector, his wife Susie, and their place on the Cumberland Plateau. Hector is what I wanna be when I grow up! I saw and experienced a man of love and focus in his direct efforts both within the local community and in our larger society. As Meg noted a recurring statement made by Hector was "so much work to be done". This was heard again after Meg, Sydney, and I returned from our walk to the falls and pinnacle, and I inquired about protecting this land from development. He said, as well, that he was very interested in doing so and he had previously been in contact w/ an assisting agency that he could not recall the title of. A few days later while speaking w/ a conservation organization which is involved in assisting in the protection of these lands on the plateau, they spoke specifically of this gorge, of which Hidden Springs is a part, without any knowledge from me about the area on the plateau that I was inquiring about. Some of this gorge has already obtained protective status w/ the help of concerned local landowners and cooperating organizations. When I returned to Hidden springs the following week I brought up some information for Hector and Susie to review for obtaining conservation easement status for these falls and the immediate surrounding area. He said he would check it out and consider taking steps to communicate w/ the neighbor who shares a small part of the particular area. This neighbor also shares an interest in keeping the land as is. That was two weeks ago and I'll be returning very soon to finish the blueberry harvest and anything else I can contribute for my room and board. These pictures in no way express the full size and beauty of this gorge nor the need for protecting it. Peace

Hidden Springs Farm, Jackson County, Tennessee, Sunday, July 20th, 2008

He is a notoriously peaceful man, gently fretting at the age of eighty or more, “so much work to be done…” as we finger the laminated children’s drawings serving as placemats decorating the large kitchen table. This is a humid Sunday conversation between visitors (James the Walker, Sydney, and I), the W.W.O.O.F.ers (Willing Workers Of Organic Farms) and Mr. Hector Black, touching lightly upon one point of information after another, almost as lyrically as the monarch butterflies we will encounter a while later on our short hike south of the farm buildings, as acquaintances are made. Most interesting to me (and in service to this blog) is the existence of three (or more) waterfalls at both ends of this mysterious hollow which is indiscernible from along the rolling crest of the Cumberland Plateau, northwest of Cookeville.

The story of Hector’s arrival here at Hidden Springs accompanied by wife Suzie from an earlier farm in Atlanta, the year 1977 (also known as the summer Elvis died) makes an impression on me for three reasons: 1) We are awful close to Graceland and I can only imagine the woe, 2) Sydney arrived here in Cookeville the same year, and 3) Hector uses the word “deserted” to describe his property at the time. Today the enterprise is described as “Hidden Springs: Organic Produce, Agroforestry, Uncommon Edible, and Landscape Plants.”

Our arrival at Hidden Springs follows a visit to Sydney’s mother’s land situated on a small fork within the gorge. Enveloped by high mountainsides dropping dramatically upon open fields and a creek bed, our first impression of this lovely landscape, both woodsy and sun-laden, is solidified by an easy walk through high meadow grasses and plants toward an almost dry creek of solid slate except for puddles here and there from a recent rain. Our first wildlife encounter is a turtle found by James dug comfortably into a mud and gravel pocket and which endures our slightly disrespectful inquiries as to the nature of its gender very patiently.

Our tour of the gorge continues after leaving the property owned by Sydney’s mom; notable is a brown canvas yurt not far up the road erected by neighbors and other homes built with a non-traditional perspective toward habitable or conscientious living. We also pass a couple open fields where the straw has been cut and rolled into giant spools and a blueberry orchard where a worker’s cabin rests across the road. Pulling up to the open garage of the main house without any real viewpoint or perspective of the grounds except for a summer garden plot full of healthy corn, squash and other vegetables of the season, not only are the springs hidden but also a seemingly ordinary bathroom in the main residence that is actually a composting privy (lift the lid and observe the dark stall below), and the greenhouse that is Amy's (Hector’s daughter) living quarters. Many slightly overgrown paths between the tended vegetation and the dirt road to the southwestern twin falls and pinnacle rock masquerade the many activities at hand.

As the three of us venture forth, we first tour the old greenhouse, still in high use with its voluminous fig trees, a mulberry endowed with huge pocked fruit and a variety of tree saplings. A low road then leads us behind a house owned by neighbors and the W.W.O.O.F.er’s residence with its high porch and weathered wood where some fine young men relax with a smoke and beer. As my memory wears thin around the details of the actual path to the falls, I’ll allow James to fill in his own impressions but I would like to say that as we progress, it is as luscious a rainforest as Tennessee can muster rivaling some of the more well-traveled watersheds found in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Here are some notes from 7/20/08:
James the Walker, Sydney, and I trek southwestward to a mystical waterfall with two flumes and a pinnacle rock which divides them. The pinnacle is a scrap of plateau just about eye-level with the topmost ground. Sydney encourages our exploration of the pinnacle. The humidity and heat are strong but this peak offers a remarkable view of the larger of the two falls and the overall shape of the gorge in that particular area. This is private property, y’all! Upon reaching a lower-level again, we dance around massive amounts of poison ivy in order to reach the highest drop-off where falling water is approachable. I do not hesitate to stick my whole head into the flume and cool off. Taking a meditation break, James, Sydney and I become increasingly aware of the breezes created by the fast falling water above and below us as we sit along a shallow pool that has gathered on a rock shelf at a midway point. There are minnows in the pool fighting the current which appears to be pulling them forth to the edge, most probably washed from the issuing creek above. Below us, a large and majestic sycamore tree grows in the center of the once again recumbent waters as several monarch butterflies hover and play in the wind currents. I am in awe of the peaceful quiet, the natural beauty and the powerful friendships that have brought me to this place.

Big Timber and Little Bears August 7th

This walk began on the Lead Cove Trail("led"), after it crosses Laurel Crk Rd, going in the direction of the Bote Mtn Trl. "Ja'll git all that"? The trail parallels the road for a short distance and then makes a sharp left turn to begin a more pleasant experience following the path of an old road that once went through this reforested farmland. A stream goes along side the trail for a little while. Off the trail here to the left I noticed some piles of rock which were apparently made by man. When I got home I checked the "lil' brown book", that I'd obviously forgotten, and learned I was probably looking at what remains of Gibson Tiptons' cabin. The Tipton's were some of the first Anglo settlers in the Cove. As I progressed up towards the intersection w/ Bote Mtn Trl, I noticed the large trees scattered consistently in the forest and amongst these large hardwoods were big decaying Hemlocks, still standing. The seemingly larger than usual trees were seen along the whole loop I made this day. As I made it farther into the forest and higher in elevation the walk became very pleasant though somewhat physically challenging and at times very rough from exposed rocks and roots. The picture here is from a similar sight along Anthony Crk Trl a few miles further in the walk. I've found this to be more "the case", than not on these dual use trails, which this whole loop was, dual use. At the intersection w/ Bote Mtn. (aprx. 3000') the route I chose took me to the right, up Bote Mtn. Trl, so after enjoying a log to sit on for a few minutes and the vista which included Thunderhead peak I walked some more. From here, after 1.2 miles in distance and 800' gain in elevation, up a sometimes again rough rocky trail, the Anthony Crk Trl begins on the right. This is a 3.5 mile decline almost continually along side the sometimes large creek for which the trail is named. After about a half mile or so I passed campsite #9 which was a pretty nice site right beside Anthony Crk. Throughout the walk here there are small cascades and then pools of water large enough to "waller" around in if one saw fit to do so. Towards the bottom, about .5 miles away from a large equestrian campsite, I spotted two cubs running for cover, apparently having noticed my approach. I stopped to check for "ma and pa", and after 5 minutes or so, I saw and heard nothing further so I continued on my walk.
A few minutes later I crossed over a wide wooden bridge and shortly after that, before the trail split for the Cades Cove Campground, was the large equestrian campground. This camp location was different than it is shown on the park trail map that I was using. Shortly after the campsite was the right turn for the 1.6 mile Crib Gap Trail that damn near put me right on the side of the Laurel Creek Rd. a few times before crossing it at .8 ml. and connecting back to where I began the excursion after another .8 mls. The last few hundred yards were very pleasant visually, though the frequent noise from vehicles was close to remind me where I was in the park. The final approach into the cove.
The route was fairly strenuous for a day hike both w/ the length and the first 3 miles which is pretty much an incline. Also something to consider for some, is the often rocky and rough conditions of these dual use trails. Peace

The Other Half

Well the other half began from the Townsend 'Y', parking area and the Chestnut Top Trailhead. This trail has an intimidating beginning which deterred me some in the past and made the excuse that "it's not gonna be any fun, it's too close to the road and probably has lots of noise", more believable. Yea, yea, yea! This behavior of mine was described by Herbert Spencer as "contempt prior to investigation".
This trail has a steep incline from the start and after a 1/2 mile begins to level some. At times. For the two miles or so walked I'd say I was going up most of it until I began to overlap the route walked on Sunday. Some really cool rock formations on the climb up, though as noted in the "lil brown book", you'll wanna watch your step through here because off the trail to the right it is damn near vertical. The trail becomes quiet w/ the elevation gain, and like the other half will have some wonderful views this fall and winter. Once I began to recognize the trail and views from the walk on Sunday I gave thanks, again, and turned around. W/ the almost continuous decline in elevation from the turnaround I made great time coming out. This trail has no permanent water source though I saw some fresh water in a wet spring about a mile plus into the walk, that had I my MSR filter I would have had no problem drinking this water.

Beginning from this side the Chestnut Top Trail is difficult, yet doable even for the smoker or novice w/ frequent rest. Oh, yippee! and there was no litter on this section of trail that I noticed, minus a big band-aid that someone left. The noise was at times noticeable from Hwy #321, but not lasting and surely not enough to prevent my return. Should the spirits permit it. Peace

Chestnut Top Today

This walk along the Chestnut Top Trail began on the School House Gap side of it's length, which extends from there, 4.3 miles to the Townsend 'Y'. From the car and approx. 2 miles along the trail this was a 5 mile+ RT walk along the ridge line. It was moderate to easy and offered some nice vistas even w/ the summer foilage. The most difficult part of the hike would be from the car to the trailhead. I saw Thunderhead Mtn., which is visable from this trail, and was allowed different perspectives of this for about 1/2 mile along the route. Or at least until I turned around. Some noise from motor traffic at times from Hwy #321, Townsend, yet it was not nearly what I had feared. Several times before I've approached this trail and not followed it because of pre-concieved conclusions which had little validity. Hmmmm? Heck, this was the middle of the summer, on a sunny Sunday and the noise pollution was not a problem any more than one encounters along other trails in the GSMNP.
This trail was well kept and, as the "lil' brown trail book" points out, will have many more wide vistas during the winter. Great trail for a longer RT, (8.6 mls., from School Hs.Gp. to the 'Y', and back), and one I'll try later, maybe in the fall.