Will the Ranger....

Hello, This walk was a 6 mile+ one-way, beginning at the West Prong trailhead at Tremont, and ending at the School House Gap/Scott Mountain junction w/ a second car parked at "the gate". I had just done a small portion of this route the day before and found it very interesting how quickly some of these wet streams go dry even after the copious amounts of rainfall we have had recently. The falls in the sinks were awesome as I think these pictures will partially reveal.
My friend the "Ranger Will"; who really is a park ranger, joined me along this walk as he acquaints himself w/ the different areas within the park. The pace was relatively relaxed, the temperature was in the 40's if you were standing in sunshine without the wind, but probably in the 30's in the shade at the top of some of the ridges and colder with the windchill. The seemingly translucent moon was visible in the often broken blue sky.
It was great actually having to step w/ care over and through streams crossings to avoid getting your feet wet! The only folks we saw were a man we spoke w/ just before West Prong trail began it's decent to campsite #18, and two other folks we greeted at the Bote Mtn., West Prong intersection; where we had stopped for some grub, who were headed down the Bote mtn trail. A wonderful day for hiking! Peace. Oh! have you called the Governor today and asked him what actions he has taken regarding the coal ash spill? Did You know...The TVA CEO, Tom Kilgore, got a raise of $500,000, in October('08), bringing his salary to 3.27 million dollars a year! , this pay raise a month after TVA made the largest rate increase in 30 years! The Governor's phone# 615-741-2001

Campsite #18, via Bote Mtn. Trail

Today,(8/23/08), we have a VP on the Democratic ticket and I hiked for about 4.5 miles in the GSMNP. I started the morning w/ big plans and found I was unintentionally delaying my start through repeated evaluations and second guessing. So finally I got my stuff and went to the Post Office to mail a letter to the editor. W/ this done I was on my way to the park entrance and went right at the Townsend 'Y', to "force" the issue for myself and decide the route for the day. I chose the the Bote Mtn. trailhead which begins approx. 3.5 miles in from the 'Y', w/ a parking area at the Schoolhouse Gap trailhead on the right. The Bote Mtn. trail is about 250 yards back and across the street. This trail was described on another day in an entry from 7/7/08, of a walk on June 25th. I found the route similar to that day minus the "creature sighting", and add dust from the lack of rain. After the 1.2 mile climb and intersection w/ the end of the West Prong trail I went left on that trail and to campsite #18, which was like only a half a mile or so. I've walked through this site a few times but this time having no agenda, I stopped and looked around. What a great campsite! The water was still running well in the West Prong, which separates the tent sites at this campsite and the folks who have "adopted" this site for upkeep had apparently been here recently w/ signs of cleaned fire pits and grounds. Thank you for your help. The sites are spread apart giving lots of privacy w/ each having a fire ring, easy water if the West Prong is running, and pulleys for the packs etc... . This site, #18, is easily accessible from the West Prong trailhead parking at Tremont as well and both routes appear to be about the same distance, approx. 2mls.
While I was at #18, I walked to each camping area and really liked 'A', and 'C', for the distance from the main trail, and other reasons like this "large puddle" of moving water, one of several at #18, which flowed just beyond 'A'. Come walk w/ us and you can decide for yourself.
I followed a trail up the creek from site 'C', which appeared to be along an old road; or railway from the logging years, and also an area which looked like it once had a building(s) of some sort on it. Actually I noted a couple of spots where this looked to be the case so I'll ask about it when I'm volunteering next week at the visitor center. Really a nice hike complete w/ Cardinal Flowers, and big trees. Peace

Big Timber and Little Bears August 7th

This walk began on the Lead Cove Trail("led"), after it crosses Laurel Crk Rd, going in the direction of the Bote Mtn Trl. "Ja'll git all that"? The trail parallels the road for a short distance and then makes a sharp left turn to begin a more pleasant experience following the path of an old road that once went through this reforested farmland. A stream goes along side the trail for a little while. Off the trail here to the left I noticed some piles of rock which were apparently made by man. When I got home I checked the "lil' brown book", that I'd obviously forgotten, and learned I was probably looking at what remains of Gibson Tiptons' cabin. The Tipton's were some of the first Anglo settlers in the Cove. As I progressed up towards the intersection w/ Bote Mtn Trl, I noticed the large trees scattered consistently in the forest and amongst these large hardwoods were big decaying Hemlocks, still standing. The seemingly larger than usual trees were seen along the whole loop I made this day. As I made it farther into the forest and higher in elevation the walk became very pleasant though somewhat physically challenging and at times very rough from exposed rocks and roots. The picture here is from a similar sight along Anthony Crk Trl a few miles further in the walk. I've found this to be more "the case", than not on these dual use trails, which this whole loop was, dual use. At the intersection w/ Bote Mtn. (aprx. 3000') the route I chose took me to the right, up Bote Mtn. Trl, so after enjoying a log to sit on for a few minutes and the vista which included Thunderhead peak I walked some more. From here, after 1.2 miles in distance and 800' gain in elevation, up a sometimes again rough rocky trail, the Anthony Crk Trl begins on the right. This is a 3.5 mile decline almost continually along side the sometimes large creek for which the trail is named. After about a half mile or so I passed campsite #9 which was a pretty nice site right beside Anthony Crk. Throughout the walk here there are small cascades and then pools of water large enough to "waller" around in if one saw fit to do so. Towards the bottom, about .5 miles away from a large equestrian campsite, I spotted two cubs running for cover, apparently having noticed my approach. I stopped to check for "ma and pa", and after 5 minutes or so, I saw and heard nothing further so I continued on my walk.
A few minutes later I crossed over a wide wooden bridge and shortly after that, before the trail split for the Cades Cove Campground, was the large equestrian campground. This camp location was different than it is shown on the park trail map that I was using. Shortly after the campsite was the right turn for the 1.6 mile Crib Gap Trail that damn near put me right on the side of the Laurel Creek Rd. a few times before crossing it at .8 ml. and connecting back to where I began the excursion after another .8 mls. The last few hundred yards were very pleasant visually, though the frequent noise from vehicles was close to remind me where I was in the park. The final approach into the cove.
The route was fairly strenuous for a day hike both w/ the length and the first 3 miles which is pretty much an incline. Also something to consider for some, is the often rocky and rough conditions of these dual use trails. Peace

School for Turkeys...along the Trails

This was a great hike under the canopy for the most part and thanks to early morning weather I was alone until the last 3 miles. When I awoke the first time at 4 something, a.m., it was raining and I thought great I'll just stay up have some coffee, bananas, and get on the trail around six. I quickly rethought that after checking the weather on the computer and went back to sleep.
Shortly after 9am I got up, had some coffee, Bananas, a Lara Bar; or 2, packed a shoulder bag and got in the car for a trailhead yet to be determined.
I chose the School House Gap Trail; via Tuckaleechee Cove, and followed this to Turkeypen Ridge Trail, 1 ml. I followed Turkeypen down 3.4 mls to the intersection of 3 trails which included Crib Gap, Lead Cove, and Finley Cane trails. I was looking for the latter in order to continue an 11 mile+ loop, counting the walk from the car.
Finley Cane begins through the tunnel pictured or up and over to cross Laurel Creek Rd. The walk through the tunnel was not difficult and there were rocks to hop when needed. This trail became a wide dual use route w/ a steady incline up to a connection w/ Bote Mtn. Trail just under 3 mls from the start.
From the beginning of Turkeypen Trail, and onto Finley Cane, there are beautiful forest. These forest cover some relatively open areas underneath the canopy and at times I would have to stop, listen to the silence, absorb the colors, and feel the peace. Mushrooms were frequent w/ the recent rains and small blooms old and new, were as well. And large trees!
When I connected w/ Bote Mtn. trail I sat on a fallen tree and retied my boots in an attempt to prevent blisters. I was beginning to notice a hot spot on my right heel (got one anyway). From here it's .6 ml to the next left turn just as Bote Mtn. Trl. runs into the West Prong Trail. If you continue to walk it in that direction, down and to the right you'll come to a great campsite along the West Prong, #18, in less than a mile. The continuation of Bote Mtn. Trl. drops me off the Mtn. and hooks me up w/ School House Gap Trail, about 2.5 miles from my starting point. I picked up a small bag of garbage along the way and just can't figure out why some feel the need to leave cigarette butts, styrofoam cups, plastic baggies, and other non-perishable items. Damn, even your toilet paper which will be gone after a rain or two, you can at least bury it under some mulch or leaves. Better yet! Take it out w/ you and Leave No Trace! Peace

School House June 25th

Hello, this walk took place a few weeks ago though I've been reluctant to post it because I forgot my camera...well I remembered it this time along the walk then left it in Townsend when I drove to Nashville to finish up some work.
This walk began at the School House Gap Trail Head, from the Tuckalechee Cove side, and was fairly strenuous. The first 2 miles are along open moderate trails w/ the 2nd mile dropping down to Laurel Creek road. At the crossing of Laurel Creek rd. I turned left walking along the side of the road and back over a stream, crossed the road, and hooked up w/ the Bote Mtn Trail on the other side. The next 1.2 miles was a steady incline along a wide path to an intersection w/ the West Prong trail which can hook you up w/ the AT and an wide assortment of other routes.
I made it point of walking to this crossroad then returning back the way I'd come about 50 yards to rest and eat some gorp. While doing so some folks passed by on horses. We greeted each other and I sat back down to enjoy the soothing "greens and noises of nature". Just as I stood up to gather my hat and day pack I heard a large animal moving in the undergrowth about 30 ft. below me. I quickly got my camera ready as I noticed a "shadow" of a what appeared to be a bear, or boar, moving through some brush. I say shadow because I only saw for a moment a large dark spot moving amongst the green leaves. About this time I was also becoming consciously aware of the fact that whatever this large animal was it was very close and may not know I am present. So I whistled and said hello, to which it scruffled through some more bushes and then stopped. I never got a clear view as it moved in short burst for a a minute or more then stopped hidden under the bushes and trees below where I was standing. It might have noticed, as I did, the approach of more riders. I spoke w/ them briefly as they stopped and I briefed them on what was just occuring. They dismissed my information after a short talk and continued on. Much to my delight I'll add, as the woman rider was telling me how to behave around her _____ horse because my hiking poles were scaring it. This route is a dual use trail though I had it all to myself for the first hour or so. Water was plentiful though even w/ a filter it would be wise to "locate areas of gathering less polluted by horse run-off".
Peace.

Blisters in the Back Country 02/08/08

W

This back country excursion began at the parking area for the West Prong trail head across the road from the main building at the Insitute at Tremont. After parking and "losing" my tent; as I had reservations in shelters the next 2 nights, I started my walk up Tremont road and the approx. 3.7 miles to Middle Prong Trailhead. It was a nice walk and only one car passed along the way. Once at the trailhead I continued up the Middle Prong Trail enjoying the full stream; Lynn Camp prong, which flows along side the trail, and the rock formations stacked beside it, in it, and over it as well. Just over 4 miles into this trail I came upon some day hikers who were very pleasant and told me of Indian Flats Falls, just ahead and to the right, down an unmarked spur. This was worth the detour of only about 150 yards and as I'm sure the couple I'd met new, it makes a great destination for a 8 mile+(RT) day hike. Indian Flats Falls (see pic) consist of at least three large falls cascading down into the Indian Flats Prong w/ lots of rocks to sit or lay on while appreciating the peace. All these "prongs" end up playing parts in forming the Little River. I took a few pictures and returned to the trail and up just a little bit connected to the Greenbriar Ridge Trail.

Greenbriar Ridge Trail continued the noticeable ascent up Davis Ridge which had just become more obvious of an incline back about 1/2 mile or so, as the previous trail ended w/ some consecutive switchbacks. Greenbriar Ridge was pleasant trail, one I'd rate as difficult for the novice, as the next 4 miles we're gaining some serious elevation. The Derrick Knob shelter, which is only 3/10's of a mile from where Greenbriar Ridge intersects w/ the AT, sits at 4890'.
Upon my arrival at the shelter I met, what would be the only other guest here, Josh and Shannon. They were old friends and it seems Josh, an AT sectional hiker had convinced his friend, who had never backpacked before, to join him. I wonder if they're still talkng? Ha, ha, As they were in the middle of, what is described by some, as the most difficult section of the AT and were hiking the next day through to Mt. Collins which meant some serious stuff! Hey guys please tell us how it went! I thanked Josh the next morning for introducing his friend to the Wild before they departed, and complimented Shannon for meeting the challenge. Rock on!

So, after reading in 'Hiking Trails of The Smokies', about how difficult the next 6.3 miles of the AT would be I quickly dismissed it as information for the beginner hikers, such as one of my new friends from Alabama. HAAAA! I'm the novice!! How little I really know. The AT between Derrick Knob and Spence Field was some serious "Stuff". I suggest reading about it in the previously mentioned text (p86-87) and heed any notes of practicality about the section to be hiked. Not that I did mind you, but I'm paying for it today. Well, that and another not so well thought out decision but more about that in a minute. Along this part of the AT there was no water basically, until you reach Beechnut Gap, at this point there is an obvious spur down off the AT to a big; at least on this day, broad, flowing spring. I passed a group of folks here who seemed to have been here before and were very pleasant as we shared greetings, etc... .
All along this portion of the AT, my excursion was very rewarding w/ the spectacular views both east into North Carolina, w/ Fontana Lake off in the distance, and west back over Tennessee, and Cades Cove (see pic). Throughout this there were "ups and downs" along the trail and most "ups" without switchbacks and involved often steep, extended inclines. Now I'm no light wieght yet these were/are strong challenges to ones strength, endurance, and determination, at times. How many of you reading this have hiked here, or somewhere similar, and asked yourself while in the middle of it "What the _____ am I doing?" Only to be smiling a few moments later as you look over a cliff at the valley below and answer your question w/ an affirmative smile and saying "because I love this"। Whatever "this" is. Endorphins, solitude, peace... . OK, so I get to the turn off for Bote Mtn. trail, 2/10's of a mile from the Spence Field shelter; which I checked out, and I have been toying w/ the thought of completeing my walk out today. I didn't do anything smart like review my map or consider what I had just accomplished and went w/ it, my initial thought, thinking "oh, the next 6 miles won't be a problem, heck it's all down hill, 20 minute miles and I'll be out before dark". After 1.7 miles into my descent I look at the map as I arrive at the crossroad w/ Anthony Creek trail to get a bearing on my estimated time of arrival and begin to realize what a potentially serious miscalcualtion I had made. It was just over 10 miles, not 6, out along Bote Mtn., to the West Prong trail and out to my car. Being the stubborn person I am sometimes, I marched on re-adjusting my ETA by at least an hour.
Practicing lots of acceptance about "who's responsiblity" it was for where I was at that moment. I enjoyed the trail and the various levels and types of forest I passed through, again see the previous referenced text, (p129). Upon reaching campsite #18, I was rejuvenated knowing I had "only" 2.7 miles to go, though this was tempered by a camper I spoke w/ breifly as I passed who told me it was "just over the top of that little mountain and then it's just down from there". Well "Them there" natural pain killers kicked in and I gotter done! Despite some developing blisters, sore legs and occasional personal mental abuse about some of my descisions that day, I was very pleased w/ what I had accomplished and offered lots of "thanks to the spirits that be", for the opportunity to experience what had been allowed me that day. Peace