A Few Days Away

Hello to all! This excursion began on Sunday the 31st of October from Cades Cove and the Anthony Creek Trail early in the afternoon. The weather was fabulous with temperatures around 70 degrees, sunny skies and a nice breeze. Of course this meant lots of folks "auto-touring" and even some walking on the initial few miles of the trail. Most coming out from day hikes though I spoke with some BP's coming off Spence Field who had had a pleasant weekend. I followed Anthony Creek trail to the Russell Field trail (RF) where some folks were sitting listening to an old timer tell stories of the past so I greeted them and continued on. The trail was great except for the horse shit I had to step around occasionally. Water was available throughout the three days hiking however I chose not to collect it at RF Shelter due to the strong odor from horse shit in the trail and how the trail which paralleled the water source was acting as drainage for recent rains into this source. The RF Shelter is open and looks great with the refurbishing done. Thanks Folks! (see the picture)



I rested at RF after the 3.5 mile climb to the AT before continuing on to Mollie's Ridge. A note here: the guide books and maps I've seen that provide the distance between RF and Mollie's state it as being around two miles though the trail signs show it as just over three. The distance on these signs between Mollie's and Spence would be a total of 6.4, rather than the 5+ I calculated and which I heard several different parties later making the same observation.
Upon arrival at Mollie's I greeted two avid hikers from Dalton Ga, who were collecting wood for the fire. A fire which we kept hot and burning in the shelter fireplace until after we slept. We were later joined by a father and son team who were hiking from Newfound Gap to Fontana. The fire and the wind breaker covering the front of the shelter made for a pleasant nights rest with temperatures probably in the lower 30's upper 20's. It was not as cool the next night.
Monday November 1st, I took my time getting up and moving because I had only 6.4 miles of relatively moderate terrain to cover back to Spence Field where I'd be staying that night.




At Spence I was greeted by to young men, SOBO's, who had started 58 days prior near Gettysburg, Pennsylvania and who were sleeping in today. They were only going a short distance because it was like 2:30 at that point. They shared some stories, the most interesting to me was...well that's probably better shared on another site, and was probably why they were so tired. Anyway they moved on shortly after 3pm for RF and left the fire burning for me. Just after laying in the grass atop Spence Field appreciating what has been given me for about 45 minutes and feeling like I may have this shelter to myself they showed up! A man with his two children and a lap dog! Uuuhgggg!!!! I had time to compose myself. It was too late to continue out for either party and find another shelter so I politely said hello. The next morning before departing I explained to him the parks policy on dogs to which he admittedly new he was in the wrong "but what else was I gonna do with my dog?". Really wanta know? It ain't about the dog sir!!
The Bote Mountain trail was as rocky as the last three times I've hiked it only this time I was going down through the 1 mile+ of softball size rocks, tempting me to twist or break something if not careful. Erosion and heavy horse traffic. Shortly after turning left onto Anthony Creek trail I passed a couple in their 60's+ looking strong on a day hike and was given more hope that all things willing I'll be able to do the same when I reach that point in "the trail." Peace

Spring Snow

Dudes! and Dudettes! What a cool walk I got to take today up Anthony Creek trail to Russell field trail and up along Leadbetter ridge. The snow was with me from the picnic area where I parked, just inside Cades Cove, and only deepened as I gained elevation. When I started my return approximately a half a mile+ from the Russell Field shelter it was like 8 inches deep. The only wildlife I saw were birds of various types, none of which I could identify but click this picture and you'll get a better view of the one in this tree.
When I started I had my hopes up that I'd have the trail to myself, as there were no other cars parked in the picnic area lot where I started from. Well that's because the groups of "overnighters" I passed (7 persons total) as I was going in could not park in that lot overnight.
I was on the trail about 4.5 hours and it snowed probably half that time. The streams are of course busting loose and the temperatures are supposed to reach the 60's Tomorrow. The blooms will return soon I'm sure and The Walker and others will provide more pic's though you ought to come see them for yourself. Things are just getting started and the park has stuff going on all year celebrating the 75Th anniversary of it's "grand opening".

Another Year Begins on The Trail

This excursion took place on Saturday August 30th, w/ the beginning of "new years", of different sorts, amongst friends and new friends, along the trail today. A hot humid day to share gratitude for the things in the wild life, and also a time to share plans and ideas for our part in conserving it.
Our walk began out of the Cades Cove picnic area which was busy w/ folks enjoying their version of the outdoors and it was great to see this. Hopefully they'll educate themselves on the republican candidates environmental past, and his vp nominee, and her affiliation w/ big oil and her Dismal environmental record. If they enjoy these places.
After we passed the horse camp at the beginning of the Anthony Creek trail we followed it the 3.5 miles up to Bote Mtn. trail. An important new friend was made along the way about a mile and half into the walk when we met Beth who was coming down from the AT after meeting her friends at Spence Field the day before. She spoke of all the bear sightings she had heard of that morning and the one she'd seen as well (Our group had reached the trailhead around 11:30am). She also shared w/ us some information of a website posted by a group she's a part of, I've since reviewed, and we'll post a link to after we clear it w/ them.
After speaking for a while and exchanging some information we parted and began the ascent of the current trail up to Bote Mtn. We made exceptional time in the first part of this excursion, which eventually totaled approx. 14 mls., as "the mysterious one" lead w/ a strong and consistent pace. Once we reached the AT via the Bote Mtn. trail we went over to the Spence Field shelter and ate some lunch; delicious wraps purchased from Jamie at 'Thunderhead Perk' in Townsend (see the links on this page). While here we spoke w/ several folks who were sectional hikers, another two who were out for the weekend, one of which had hiked a large portion of the AT, and several others scattered around the vicinity of the shelter. There was a small flow of water from the source here.
Well, as we finished our lunch and the "overnighters" began to disperse for their next stop we picked up a our garbage and gear and continued. This relatively easy 2.9 ml., section of the AT was pretty awesome w/ balds, trees, birds, flowers, and a readiness for bears. This readiness was on account of the fact that the recent bear activity in this region of the park has been noted and the Russel Field shelter; our next destination, was closed because of "aggressive activity". As was campsite #10, which we would be passing through along our descent from the AT after turning off at Russel Field. We heard on two occasions, what appeared to be large animals close by, in thick cover. The first as we approached Russel Field and then along the descent from the AT on Russel Field trail. Along this trail, probably 200 yards down on the left (just past the formal source) from the shelter we found a big puddle of water flowing, slowly, which I got water from.
This area was open under the canopy in most places as we walked this trail and were both delighted and saddened as we noticed the Huge Hemlocks destroyed by the woolly algid. Some great trees fallen while others still stand in skeleton form building mounds of mulch around the trunks as the bark peels from them. Mixed within this forest were some huge oaks as well. Portions of forest along this trail are considered part an "old- growth forest". Note that does not mean virgin forest. This trail intersects back w/ the Anthony Creek Trail, after a 3.5 mile fairly easy walk from where it began. A person on these trails will want to wear some hiking boots w/ good soles because of the rough nature of these trails due to horses and to a much lessor extent, hiker volume. Lots of rocks. Hey, we also picked up various pieces of plastic waste including empty retail water bottles. A great day w/ friends. Peace

Big Timber and Little Bears August 7th

This walk began on the Lead Cove Trail("led"), after it crosses Laurel Crk Rd, going in the direction of the Bote Mtn Trl. "Ja'll git all that"? The trail parallels the road for a short distance and then makes a sharp left turn to begin a more pleasant experience following the path of an old road that once went through this reforested farmland. A stream goes along side the trail for a little while. Off the trail here to the left I noticed some piles of rock which were apparently made by man. When I got home I checked the "lil' brown book", that I'd obviously forgotten, and learned I was probably looking at what remains of Gibson Tiptons' cabin. The Tipton's were some of the first Anglo settlers in the Cove. As I progressed up towards the intersection w/ Bote Mtn Trl, I noticed the large trees scattered consistently in the forest and amongst these large hardwoods were big decaying Hemlocks, still standing. The seemingly larger than usual trees were seen along the whole loop I made this day. As I made it farther into the forest and higher in elevation the walk became very pleasant though somewhat physically challenging and at times very rough from exposed rocks and roots. The picture here is from a similar sight along Anthony Crk Trl a few miles further in the walk. I've found this to be more "the case", than not on these dual use trails, which this whole loop was, dual use. At the intersection w/ Bote Mtn. (aprx. 3000') the route I chose took me to the right, up Bote Mtn. Trl, so after enjoying a log to sit on for a few minutes and the vista which included Thunderhead peak I walked some more. From here, after 1.2 miles in distance and 800' gain in elevation, up a sometimes again rough rocky trail, the Anthony Crk Trl begins on the right. This is a 3.5 mile decline almost continually along side the sometimes large creek for which the trail is named. After about a half mile or so I passed campsite #9 which was a pretty nice site right beside Anthony Crk. Throughout the walk here there are small cascades and then pools of water large enough to "waller" around in if one saw fit to do so. Towards the bottom, about .5 miles away from a large equestrian campsite, I spotted two cubs running for cover, apparently having noticed my approach. I stopped to check for "ma and pa", and after 5 minutes or so, I saw and heard nothing further so I continued on my walk.
A few minutes later I crossed over a wide wooden bridge and shortly after that, before the trail split for the Cades Cove Campground, was the large equestrian campground. This camp location was different than it is shown on the park trail map that I was using. Shortly after the campsite was the right turn for the 1.6 mile Crib Gap Trail that damn near put me right on the side of the Laurel Creek Rd. a few times before crossing it at .8 ml. and connecting back to where I began the excursion after another .8 mls. The last few hundred yards were very pleasant visually, though the frequent noise from vehicles was close to remind me where I was in the park. The final approach into the cove.
The route was fairly strenuous for a day hike both w/ the length and the first 3 miles which is pretty much an incline. Also something to consider for some, is the often rocky and rough conditions of these dual use trails. Peace

Abrams Creek

This outing began with a trip to an old car camp ground I have not visited in many years. I have in years past visited this drive in camp ground of approximately twenty sites and been the only one there. This was not to be this time however. I grabbed the next to last spot a 2:00 in the afternoon and before I had my tent set up the last spot was taken also.

Abrams Creek is far better known in it's upper portions within Cades Cove but winds its way out of the cove and empties into Chilhowee Lake near the intersection of the Foothills Parkway and Highway 129, which is known to bikers as The Dragons Tail. Chilhowee Lake covers the site of an ancient Overhill Cherokee village and is thought to be the site of the Creek village "Chalahume" visited by Spanish explorer Juan Pardo in 1567.

After the put in and within a quarter of a mile of paddling the creek beds curves and immediately all sound of traffic is forgotten. On this particular trip we encountered several other canoeists/kayakers, but none ventured further than the referenced quarter mile cutoff which is a shame. It was a little past the optimum blooming of the rhododendron, but their spent blossoms floated on the water, reminiscent of cherry blossoms in Japan.

I highly recommend the trip up the creek, where an easy paddle can be turned into a multiple mile excursion. A side trip up Panther Creek for a short distance is also available. Although I was not fishing this time I did see activity and the gravel bed evidence of spawning.

Blisters in the Back Country 02/08/08

W

This back country excursion began at the parking area for the West Prong trail head across the road from the main building at the Insitute at Tremont. After parking and "losing" my tent; as I had reservations in shelters the next 2 nights, I started my walk up Tremont road and the approx. 3.7 miles to Middle Prong Trailhead. It was a nice walk and only one car passed along the way. Once at the trailhead I continued up the Middle Prong Trail enjoying the full stream; Lynn Camp prong, which flows along side the trail, and the rock formations stacked beside it, in it, and over it as well. Just over 4 miles into this trail I came upon some day hikers who were very pleasant and told me of Indian Flats Falls, just ahead and to the right, down an unmarked spur. This was worth the detour of only about 150 yards and as I'm sure the couple I'd met new, it makes a great destination for a 8 mile+(RT) day hike. Indian Flats Falls (see pic) consist of at least three large falls cascading down into the Indian Flats Prong w/ lots of rocks to sit or lay on while appreciating the peace. All these "prongs" end up playing parts in forming the Little River. I took a few pictures and returned to the trail and up just a little bit connected to the Greenbriar Ridge Trail.

Greenbriar Ridge Trail continued the noticeable ascent up Davis Ridge which had just become more obvious of an incline back about 1/2 mile or so, as the previous trail ended w/ some consecutive switchbacks. Greenbriar Ridge was pleasant trail, one I'd rate as difficult for the novice, as the next 4 miles we're gaining some serious elevation. The Derrick Knob shelter, which is only 3/10's of a mile from where Greenbriar Ridge intersects w/ the AT, sits at 4890'.
Upon my arrival at the shelter I met, what would be the only other guest here, Josh and Shannon. They were old friends and it seems Josh, an AT sectional hiker had convinced his friend, who had never backpacked before, to join him. I wonder if they're still talkng? Ha, ha, As they were in the middle of, what is described by some, as the most difficult section of the AT and were hiking the next day through to Mt. Collins which meant some serious stuff! Hey guys please tell us how it went! I thanked Josh the next morning for introducing his friend to the Wild before they departed, and complimented Shannon for meeting the challenge. Rock on!

So, after reading in 'Hiking Trails of The Smokies', about how difficult the next 6.3 miles of the AT would be I quickly dismissed it as information for the beginner hikers, such as one of my new friends from Alabama. HAAAA! I'm the novice!! How little I really know. The AT between Derrick Knob and Spence Field was some serious "Stuff". I suggest reading about it in the previously mentioned text (p86-87) and heed any notes of practicality about the section to be hiked. Not that I did mind you, but I'm paying for it today. Well, that and another not so well thought out decision but more about that in a minute. Along this part of the AT there was no water basically, until you reach Beechnut Gap, at this point there is an obvious spur down off the AT to a big; at least on this day, broad, flowing spring. I passed a group of folks here who seemed to have been here before and were very pleasant as we shared greetings, etc... .
All along this portion of the AT, my excursion was very rewarding w/ the spectacular views both east into North Carolina, w/ Fontana Lake off in the distance, and west back over Tennessee, and Cades Cove (see pic). Throughout this there were "ups and downs" along the trail and most "ups" without switchbacks and involved often steep, extended inclines. Now I'm no light wieght yet these were/are strong challenges to ones strength, endurance, and determination, at times. How many of you reading this have hiked here, or somewhere similar, and asked yourself while in the middle of it "What the _____ am I doing?" Only to be smiling a few moments later as you look over a cliff at the valley below and answer your question w/ an affirmative smile and saying "because I love this"। Whatever "this" is. Endorphins, solitude, peace... . OK, so I get to the turn off for Bote Mtn. trail, 2/10's of a mile from the Spence Field shelter; which I checked out, and I have been toying w/ the thought of completeing my walk out today. I didn't do anything smart like review my map or consider what I had just accomplished and went w/ it, my initial thought, thinking "oh, the next 6 miles won't be a problem, heck it's all down hill, 20 minute miles and I'll be out before dark". After 1.7 miles into my descent I look at the map as I arrive at the crossroad w/ Anthony Creek trail to get a bearing on my estimated time of arrival and begin to realize what a potentially serious miscalcualtion I had made. It was just over 10 miles, not 6, out along Bote Mtn., to the West Prong trail and out to my car. Being the stubborn person I am sometimes, I marched on re-adjusting my ETA by at least an hour.
Practicing lots of acceptance about "who's responsiblity" it was for where I was at that moment. I enjoyed the trail and the various levels and types of forest I passed through, again see the previous referenced text, (p129). Upon reaching campsite #18, I was rejuvenated knowing I had "only" 2.7 miles to go, though this was tempered by a camper I spoke w/ breifly as I passed who told me it was "just over the top of that little mountain and then it's just down from there". Well "Them there" natural pain killers kicked in and I gotter done! Despite some developing blisters, sore legs and occasional personal mental abuse about some of my descisions that day, I was very pleased w/ what I had accomplished and offered lots of "thanks to the spirits that be", for the opportunity to experience what had been allowed me that day. Peace