School for Turkeys...along the Trails

This was a great hike under the canopy for the most part and thanks to early morning weather I was alone until the last 3 miles. When I awoke the first time at 4 something, a.m., it was raining and I thought great I'll just stay up have some coffee, bananas, and get on the trail around six. I quickly rethought that after checking the weather on the computer and went back to sleep.
Shortly after 9am I got up, had some coffee, Bananas, a Lara Bar; or 2, packed a shoulder bag and got in the car for a trailhead yet to be determined.
I chose the School House Gap Trail; via Tuckaleechee Cove, and followed this to Turkeypen Ridge Trail, 1 ml. I followed Turkeypen down 3.4 mls to the intersection of 3 trails which included Crib Gap, Lead Cove, and Finley Cane trails. I was looking for the latter in order to continue an 11 mile+ loop, counting the walk from the car.
Finley Cane begins through the tunnel pictured or up and over to cross Laurel Creek Rd. The walk through the tunnel was not difficult and there were rocks to hop when needed. This trail became a wide dual use route w/ a steady incline up to a connection w/ Bote Mtn. Trail just under 3 mls from the start.
From the beginning of Turkeypen Trail, and onto Finley Cane, there are beautiful forest. These forest cover some relatively open areas underneath the canopy and at times I would have to stop, listen to the silence, absorb the colors, and feel the peace. Mushrooms were frequent w/ the recent rains and small blooms old and new, were as well. And large trees!
When I connected w/ Bote Mtn. trail I sat on a fallen tree and retied my boots in an attempt to prevent blisters. I was beginning to notice a hot spot on my right heel (got one anyway). From here it's .6 ml to the next left turn just as Bote Mtn. Trl. runs into the West Prong Trail. If you continue to walk it in that direction, down and to the right you'll come to a great campsite along the West Prong, #18, in less than a mile. The continuation of Bote Mtn. Trl. drops me off the Mtn. and hooks me up w/ School House Gap Trail, about 2.5 miles from my starting point. I picked up a small bag of garbage along the way and just can't figure out why some feel the need to leave cigarette butts, styrofoam cups, plastic baggies, and other non-perishable items. Damn, even your toilet paper which will be gone after a rain or two, you can at least bury it under some mulch or leaves. Better yet! Take it out w/ you and Leave No Trace! Peace

Bears in The Woods

The times when I'm at least trying to be at peace w/ my immediate surroundings things tend to workout. As I began this walk at Rich Mtn. trail I was believing in the positive energies I'd "walk into" along the way and things the wild world would allow me to be a part of. Heck, as you can see from the pictures w/ this entry the positive thoughts and actions were returned to me w/ each step I took.
I started from Rich Mtn. Rd. without a destination, some gorp and water, and two books. One being the lil' brown book about the trails and the other one for identifying trees. I used both.
This trail is described in the brown book as being "upside down" as in it begins dry, without a stream, proceeds up Rich Mtn. and about 2 miles into it you come to water in a stream down on the right. Soon after beginning this route I noticed a spur to the right which takes you down to a sink developing here. After 2.3 miles of forest and ferns I arrived at campsite #5, and continued on along the Indian Grave Gap Trail until it intersected w/ the loop trail. Here I decided to stop, eat some gorp and jerky, and feel the peace. I had heard what appeared to be a large mammal in the trees below me but it never showed itself maybe a third of a mile back. After I snacked and relaxed for a while I got up and proceeded back the way I'd come and quickly reminded myself of the noises I had heard in the trees a few minutes earlier. No sooner than I remembered this I saw a bear stepping out the trees onto the trail completely unaware of me 40 yards or so down the trail. I quickly snap a few shots w/ my camera, which I already had in my hand, and then said to myself "I better let this bear know I'm here". So I begin speaking in a non-threatening tone loud enough to get its attention and keep eye contact as it stops, looks up, and a few seconds later steps off the trail. It then followed the trail parallel inside the trees about 30 yards. We kept an eye on each other as we passed and I continued to speak in mellow tones keeping it up to date on where I was.
So I'm pumped about this sighting and thanking the powers that be, wondering if the pictures are going to turn out when 10 minutes later I spot another larger, "black furry creature", already on the trail walking towards me. I still had my camera in my hand so I quickly take a few pictures and let this big bear know I'm here by saying "hello Mr or Mrs bear". With that this large mammal stops, looks up at me and doesn't move, except it's head, trying to get a "wiff" of my scent it looked like. After we stare at each other for about 20 seconds or so, w/ my "conversation" continuing, I decide it would be wise for me to begin backing away and slowly waving my arms to give the appearance of being larger than I am. As I begin this that "sucka" snarls and grunts at me letting me know I have made a good decision in backing up. It stands it's ground for another 20 or 30 seconds and then turns around and heads back the way it had come, staying on the trail and going around a knob on the ridge. The bear disappeared around the bend so I stopped and began to listen for it, trying to keep it located by the sounds it may make. After a few minutes I headed up the trail, continuing to speak to my new friend. Rounding the the bend I heard it, and then saw it amongst the trees taking a route that would bypass the area we had just met in. I continued speaking so it would know where I was and avoid any surprises. The rest of the walk out was gravy! What rewards I get when trying to be "a part of" the larger wild world. Aldo Leopold was and continues to influence my beliefs in that all things are related and Steve Martin put it best for me when I'm looking at a large bear 35 yards away, "I feel really small", Peace.

Cumberland Trail

This day hike ended on the side of Hwy. #27, where the Tennessee River Gorge Segment of the Cumberland Trail crosses this highway and continues across the bridge over Suck Creek and up Signal Mtn. Well, actually we hiked from here down the side of #27, about 1/2 mile back to the car (Not recommended). This because not being familiar w/ this trail we started at the first obvious marked trail we saw going in the direction we wanted (towards Prentice Cooper SF/WMA). This trail turned out to be a spur from the Cumberland Trail that came out on the road this distance from the formal trail crossing. The only thing I can figure for that would be for the small parking area here allowed beside the road. Of course, as I noted my lack of experience here, there may have been something I missed or was not told about.
Meg the Hiker and I enjoyed some beautiful rock formations, cliffs, and views as we ascended and descended on this section. Oh, if you haven't noticed I forgot my camera...again. Too bad, guess now you'll have to hike it to experience the appreciation. We saw the biggest mushroom I've ever seen! This thing was at least 8-10 inches tall and the of the hood was probably 7 inches in diameter. This ' shroom was alone and just beside the trail, "standing proud".
The hike; approx. 5+ miles, would probably be considered difficult due the fact that from the starting point your immediately gaining vertical, though once the initial climb is done the trail is fairly moderate w/ as mentioned, great views and big rocks to enjoy. This will be a portion of a long day hike beginning at Signal Mtn. and ending at some point like the Indian Rock House or Snoopers Overlook on Waldens Ridge, within the Prentice Cooper SF/WMA, to be made later.

New Experiences

This is my first blog entry of my life. I don't spend too much time in front of a computer when not at work. Fitting that my first blog should be about my first backpacking adventure. I have enjoyed hiking since I was a child but haven't had the opportunity to get out in the woods for an overnight adventure until the fantastic three day walk that I enjoyed with James the Walker and Meg (the mysterious) hiker. These two showed me the ropes of backpacking for which I am extremely grateful.
The adventure was described well in the previous entry. The number one highlight from my perspective was what I have lovingly termed the Rhododendron Forest. All along the Jonas Creek trail and beyond, white rhodis were in bloom, leaving a carpet of blooms on the trail and a canopy of limbs overhead. This path was traveled by a bear not long before we arrived. I met a brown snake with orangish markings on my way.
The lightening the first night was remarkable. It reminded me how bright our cities burn. So bright that we often miss nature's light shows.
Once I learned what to expect, I rather enjoyed hiking in a downpour.
Word cannot adequately express the joy felt and memories treasured from our trip. I hope to be back out there soon.
Peace.

And Then it Rained....Tuesday the 8th

Another wonderful learning experience in the GSMNP! "Meg the (Mysterious) Hiker", a friend in from NYC (aka momma bear), and I, began this excursion from Clingmans Dome late in the afternoon last Tuesday. Look for Momma Bear's first entry soon regarding this hike. She also day hikes in the Northeast and we hope to have her share on her hikes from this region and the challenges they face.
We took the CD bypass to avoid unnecessary steps and the bypass also gets you in the woods quicker. As we made our way to the connection w/ the AT we passed two younger folks, one of which was carrying a fern that had been pulled up. Meg made a comment about it to which the person replied "somebody else picked it I'm just carrying it". Oh really?... A few minutes later 3 older ladies are sliding down this rock facing which the trail crosses and was slick from an earlier rain. One of the women is carrying a platter size slab of rock from this area. You know, those slabs you see w/ multiple shades of brown, black, purple, and some tinges of yellow and orange, all mixed in intricate designs by nature and it's geographic brush. They passed w/ some non-essential statement of trail information acting as if the rock they had removed from the spot it belonged was invisible. Hmmmmm!!!
People, "this is not my park, it is ours" I have No right to remove anything except myself and what I can record on camera, paper, or in my memory! Go to the Lincoln Monument in D.C. and chip off some of ol' Abe's shoes and see what that'll getcha'!!
Once on the AT we were blessed w/ bright floral greens of different shades, some flowers, occasional views looking through the clouds into North Carolina and Fontana Lake. Soon after reaching the AT we met some hikers who were staying at Silers Bald that night which is also where we were headed. As we approached Double Springs Shelter we met up w/ them again and they said they may stay there in hopes both parties would have a shelter alone. This was not going to happen as Double Springs was crowded w/ 7 or 8 people, and water was scarce we later learned.
We passed through Double Springs w/ a greeting and continued onward to the Silers Bald Shelter where we were met by two men quietly checking equipment as another couple was already trying to sleep. It was after 8 pm. We got some grub and some sleep. The spring here, located on the TN side of the shelter and down the Mtn. about 35 yards, was running well enough, though not much more volume than last summer during a much dryer period. It's important to remember the large rainfall deficits we have had recently and that this years seemingly plentiful rain (we are below average rainfall in '08 ) does not make up for the past deficits, thus we are still in drought.
Wednesday morning we got up to no rain currently falling, though the night before was very different. Tuesday night into early Wednesday we were "treated" to neon bright lightening, Sharp roaring thunder and heavy rains. I guess the forecast changed....oh, right, we are in the Smokies. As we got some breakfast and packed our gear we met several folks who were stopping in for water after not finding any at Double Springs the night before. We walked back to Welch Ridge and followed this to Jonas Creek Trail, then down through some awesome forest and 4+ miles later an intersection w/ Forney Creek Trail. We followed this "hiker only" trail through often strong rains and numerous stream crossings to campsite #69.
Now let's go back a few miles to campsite #70. A dual horseback and hiker use site. Littered w/ assorted garbage in fire pits and along the open area. This ain't your backyard! I have an idea!! Anyone who wants to walk or ride anywhere in the park be required to attend the "Leave No Trace" program. Just a suggestion. And let it be noted as well that at site #68 (a & b) we saw a large can of baked beans unopened, various pieces of clothing, and assorted other trash.
Damn, despite these man made intrusions upon our "appreciation" we enjoyed wildflowers, cascades, some small animals, reptiles, birds, and challenges of the wild world such as rain, numerous stream crossings and steep terrain. This same route was taken by myself earlier this year and can be reviewed (see 5/05/08). It is a great 2 night route for the physically fit and agile. Peace

School House June 25th

Hello, this walk took place a few weeks ago though I've been reluctant to post it because I forgot my camera...well I remembered it this time along the walk then left it in Townsend when I drove to Nashville to finish up some work.
This walk began at the School House Gap Trail Head, from the Tuckalechee Cove side, and was fairly strenuous. The first 2 miles are along open moderate trails w/ the 2nd mile dropping down to Laurel Creek road. At the crossing of Laurel Creek rd. I turned left walking along the side of the road and back over a stream, crossed the road, and hooked up w/ the Bote Mtn Trail on the other side. The next 1.2 miles was a steady incline along a wide path to an intersection w/ the West Prong trail which can hook you up w/ the AT and an wide assortment of other routes.
I made it point of walking to this crossroad then returning back the way I'd come about 50 yards to rest and eat some gorp. While doing so some folks passed by on horses. We greeted each other and I sat back down to enjoy the soothing "greens and noises of nature". Just as I stood up to gather my hat and day pack I heard a large animal moving in the undergrowth about 30 ft. below me. I quickly got my camera ready as I noticed a "shadow" of a what appeared to be a bear, or boar, moving through some brush. I say shadow because I only saw for a moment a large dark spot moving amongst the green leaves. About this time I was also becoming consciously aware of the fact that whatever this large animal was it was very close and may not know I am present. So I whistled and said hello, to which it scruffled through some more bushes and then stopped. I never got a clear view as it moved in short burst for a a minute or more then stopped hidden under the bushes and trees below where I was standing. It might have noticed, as I did, the approach of more riders. I spoke w/ them briefly as they stopped and I briefed them on what was just occuring. They dismissed my information after a short talk and continued on. Much to my delight I'll add, as the woman rider was telling me how to behave around her _____ horse because my hiking poles were scaring it. This route is a dual use trail though I had it all to myself for the first hour or so. Water was plentiful though even w/ a filter it would be wise to "locate areas of gathering less polluted by horse run-off".
Peace.

Bald River - Tellico

The Tellico River drainage is better known for it's put and take trout fishery on the main river itself, but there are opportunities to tack some wild trout fishing and a hike together. The North River contains wild trout and a few hold overs that swim in from the Tellico River stocking. Although most opportunities will be in the 7 inch or smaller range there have been Browns of over 20 inches taken.

Another wild trout opportunity is the water above Bald River Falls. The falls itself is one of the more scenic stops in the Tellico watershed and is therefore often crowded. The trail to the top of the falls begins in the parking lot and is a rather strenuous climb for the first 400 feet or so. Then you are above the falls and normally almost totally alone.

We hiked two miles above the falls before stopping for lunch and a dip to cool off. Then despite the experiene of non-productive trips in the past an ant pattern fished dry and a blood red San Juan worm both proved good choices.